On every hill and promontory there is a fortification or the ruins of one. We can see them from our verandas and out our bedroom window. This harbor has been a strategic location for millennia. It's easy to see why. Deepwater ports that are so secure and defensible are few and the conflicts over this territory have been incessant.
We lucked out with our location. Not only did we have superb views, but it was an easy walk to the railway station, the nearest bus stop, two chain "super"markets, our instantly favorite bakery, the green grocer, the charcuterie, and a good dozen bistros and restaurants. We may have been atop a hill, but it's a hill with everything accessible below. This vacation was all about getting around via public transportation or on foot. We expected to be in better shape when we go home than when we arrived, and we could tell we were working out after only a few days. Lots of miles per day as we explored our neighborhood.
Our first week was mostly focused on the rental and the village. I tapped into my writing and Linny set up her studio in the rich light of the sunroom. We both had communications to catch up on, although we'd managed to keep open lines barely so.
Our walks gradually left the village and followed the bay to the sea. First on the south side and then on the north. We moved up the hill away from the quais and began to discover more of daily life off the tourist streets. We found where the men play pétanque in the afternoons and evenings and it's not far from the cultural center, which includes a multifunction theatre that has everything from local talent to touring artists and a schedule of feature films. There's a wine shop that seems to serve the locals and a couple bakeries that serve neighborhoods, though they fell short of our favorite.
We knew that throughout the Pyrenees along the border between France and Spain there are a multitude of hiking trails. We even knew that some had been the routes to safety from Nazism. However, we did not truly appreciate the flow south that had saved so many Jews, artists, intellectuals, and progressives from death. If we ever return, we'll spend some time on those rugged paths.
Because of our short one-day visit in 2004, we had touched the threads of history here and it seemed as if our appreciation had gained breadth and momentum without us being aware. Of course, that's a strong reason to return to most places of interest that we've visited. We're damned lucky that we've been able to finally have time for slower, deeper visits, as well as returns.
